Canter Bridge

Jordan’s principle international airport, on the outskirts of the country’s capital, is the home airport of Royal Jordanian Airways, a recently inducted member of the OneWorld Alliance that is anchored by American Airlines and British Airways. The airport has some growing up to do and, given Jordan’s current economic boom and the government’s eye for international reputation, improvements are likely to happen sooner rather than later.

Arriving and checking in is still a chaotic experience. Lines are long and baggage carriers on the make for a tip will fall upon the Western traveler and take up one’s cause as though it were just as urgent for them as you may feel it is for you. My recommendation: don’t do it. Wait in line. It moves quickly and you won’t end up feeling spammed.

The same thing happens once you get inside the first security barrier. Luggage carriers there are just as adept as the ones outside (and often are the same ones that were outside!) at making you feel obliged to use their services to get your bags to the counter. Just remember, they are unofficial entrepeneurs and you likely don’t need their help, don’t want their help, and therefore should be firm in making it clear that you’re not their customer.

I’ve had consistently good experiences on ‘RJ’, though one hears the usual griping from passengers who have not. Reportedly, their long-haul service from the US has had some growing pains.

The airport has a fairly expansive offering of duty free shops but elsewhere is dingy and out-dated. A business class ticket or PriorityPass membership will get you inside the respectable Petra and Jerash airport lounges. The coffee is good and fruit is available for the health-conscious traveler as well as the usual lard-builders. A serviceable WiFi connection is available on good days.

It’s a good airport for people watching if you score a seat on the main corridors. Traditional and ultra-modern Middle Eastern styles mingle with Western dress in a way that makes it easy, when waking from a catnap, to forget exactly where you are. Jordanians tend to be laid-back people and a pleasure to deal with as a guest.